By Andrea Grom
Small farms are the heart of our local food system, but owning and operating them are not for the faint of heart. Farmers work long hours, in all weather, and need to be skilled in running a small business. The pressure is high to get it right. In 2024, the median income of farm-owners in America was about -$1,500, and in many cases, off-farm income was necessary for survival.
What’s life like for farmers in our area? This week, I asked five Saratoga Farmers’ Market vendors; Lindsay Fisk and Mark Bascom of Owl Wood Farm, Corinne Hansch and Matthew Leon of Lovin’ Mama Farm, Rose and Dan Fera of Leaning Birch Farm, Meghan and Nathan Mattison of Grazin’ Acres Farm, and Ariel Garland and Matt Campbell of May-K-Mark; for their insights on farming’s challenges.
One thing is clear: our farmers start their days early and end late, particularly in the summer. Ariel and Matt get up at 5 am to feed and water their animals and milk their dairy cows before heading to their off-farm jobs. When they return after 5 or 6 pm, they feed, water and milk again, move their herds to new pastures, and do seasonal jobs like haying and caring for newly-born calves and their mothers. Meghan and Nathan work from sunrise to sunset tending their animals and vegetable gardens with help from their older children. Likewise, our vegetable and flower farmers and their crews work from 7 or 8 am to 5:30 to 7:30 pm (or later on Fridays) on field and greenhouse jobs like bed preparation, planting, weeding, pruning and trellising, and market-related tasks, including harvesting, washing, and packing. In the summer months, our farmers work up to 80 hours of week at physically and mentally demanding activities.
With all to do on the farm, it’s hard to catch a break. Most of our farmers remark that they are able to relax a little on Sundays. The winter months are also less intense, with time for skiing, hiking, concerts, and in Lovin’ Mama’s case, writing a book and restoring a diner into a farm store and café.
Overall, our farmers are able to make a living on their farms and are able support 4-8 employees with a living wage. That being said, some farm-owners remark that they earn far less than minimum wage, and retirement and benefits are lacking from those without off-farm jobs. The upfront costs of starting a farm and access to affordable, productive land are daunting. Moreover, crop losses, injuries, and labor challenges are stressful and it’s far from easy to maintain a work-life balance. By necessity, our farmers must be savvy with their marketing, and selling their products direct-to-consumer at farmers’ markets is key to their success.
As Ariel remarks “farming is a labor of love; we certainly aren’t getting rich doing it, but our lives don’t feel full without it.” Our farmers truly love raising animals and growing flowers and produce and they are grateful for the support of their customers. Be sure to thank them the next time you’re at the market!
The Saratoga Farmers’ Market is open Wednesdays, 3–6 PM, and Saturdays, 9 AM–1 PM, at High Rock Park in Saratoga Springs and Mondays, 2–5 PM in Clifton Park. Visit saratogafarmersmarket.org to sign up for the weekly newsletter, and follow the market on Facebook and Instagram.
